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What Camera Lens Should I Buy Next, and Other FAQs About Gear

What Camera Lens Should I Buy Next, and Other FAQs About Gear

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Something I get asked often in my photography classes, and by email from readers of this site is – “What camera lens should I buy next?”

Shopping Cart with a camera lens to buy
Read this before you fill your shopping cart with goodies

So rather than answer it multiple times by email I thought I’d cover that question here, along with a couple other commonly asked ones including:

  1. What lens should I buy next?
  2. Should I upgrade to a full-frame camera?
  3. How much should I spend to get a good tripod?
  4. Should I have a UV filter on all my lenses? What are the pros and cons?
  5. I’m just starting and want to buy my first DSLR, which one should I get?

Let’s go through these one by one:

What camera lens should I buy next?

Boy this is a tough question to answer because the answer is really – it depends!

When students and readers ask me what lens they should buy next I usually respond with a few questions back first. Until you know the answers to these questions, quite honestly I wouldn’t invest in any lenses. Once you can answer them all, then you will know what you NEED not what you want or what “they” say you should get.

Ask yourself these questions:

How to choose the next lens to buy
With the plethora of lenses available how to you choose?

WHY are you buying a new lens?

Is it because someone said you should or have you found that the ones you own are limiting you in some way?

If it’s the former, hang tight for a while and use what you’ve got for now.

If it’s the latter let’s get clear on what you need and how you are being limited and you’ll likely answer your own question.

WHAT type of photography do you most like to do?

The answer to “what lens to buy next?” will vary greatly depending on if you like to do landscape, macro, portrait or street photography.

Get clear on the type of things you like to shoot first. If you like all of the above, find your favourite thing to photograph and focus on that first – then you’ll know what to buy.

HOW MUCH do you have to spend?

Photography is an expensive hobby and profession.

Getting realistic about your budget will help you narrow down the options.

Don’t you covet the big, expensive lenses the pros have – sure! Can you afford those lenses – probably not.

If you do have an unlimited budget then by all means go for it, get them all. But if you’re like most people and have a limited amount of funds to spend on your hobby (obsession?) then you have to pick your battles.

Decide what’s most important and what you can get by with and put your money where it will help you the most.

DO you plan on doing this professionally?

If you’re thinking about doing portraits, weddings or any other aspect professionally then you will want to save your pennies and invest in the best glass (lenses) available.

If not, there is nothing wrong with 3rd party lenses made by Sigma and Tamron, or ones that aren’t in the manufacturers top of the line (Canon L-series or Nikon gold line lenses)

Can’t I just get one of the one-size-fits-all type of zoom lenses?

There are many zoom lenses on the market that offer a large range of focal lengths that serve as a lens that fits all needs. That is partly true but they have limitations such as:

  • they usually don’t offer macro focusing for close-ups,
  • they have limited maximum aperture sizes (often f/5.6 or f/6.3 which are challenging in low light scenes),
  • and they aren’t as sharp some of the smaller range or fixed (prime) lenses.

So after you have put thought into it and you know the answers to the questions above, then we can talk about some options.

I am a big advocate of not buying more “stuff” just for the sake of having the next latest, greatest thing or because your friend said to get something.

I always recommend pushing your current gear to its limits before you upgrade
Darlene

The biggest thing I find is that there is a lot of information out there about gear, what to buy, where to buy it, reviews, it’s everywhere. But I always recommend pushing your current gear to its limits before you upgrade.

My Camera Lens Recommendations:

50mm camera lens

#1 – 50mm lens

if you don’t already have one get yourself a 50mm lens

(or a 35mm if you’re using an APS-C sensor).

This is a fixed, or prime lens (it does not zoom) and as such has less moving parts which means: it is usually sharper, it is small and light, and it is relatively inexpensive.

You’ll pay between $100-200 for a 50mm f/1.8 for most camera brands.

The advantage of this lens is its wide aperture (if you get the f/1.8 version) and usability in low light conditions. Where a standard 18-55mm kit lens that came with your camera usually runs f/3.5-5.6 (those being the maximum apertures – read: What the numbers on your lens mean for more info) being able to open your aperture from f/5.6 to even f/2 is three stops of light, which equals EIGHT TIMES more light coming in your lens. This allows you to get sharper images and not have to crank up the ISO too high. It also can provide fantastic out of focus backgrounds and bokeh.

Lower Budget 50mm Lenses

If you have a slightly higher budget you might want to go up a step to one of these below.

Higher Budget 50mm Lenses

I just want to say again, if budget is an issue, the first list of lenses is fine too.

Here are couple shots done with my “nifty-fifty” lens as the 50mm f/1.8 is often called

50mm-lens-example-munchkin

50mm-lens-example

nifty-50mm-lens

#2 Get a specialty lens based on what you like to shoot

Once you know what you want to shoot then you can start getting specific.

As I mentioned already each genre of photography requires different techniques and different equipment. Pros do not use the one-size-fits-all lenses, they have a different lens for each thing they shoot. For example:

Portrait Photography

Portrait photographers usually choose a short telephoto lens with a large aperture

This allows them to throw the background out of focus and flatter their subjects.

Read: How to choose the right lens

Landscape Photography

Landscape photographers usually have a good wide angle lens in their bag.

This is one that is wider than “normal” which is considered 50mm on full-frame (35mm on cropped APS-C sensors). So wide for a full-frame camera is in the 17-35mm range, and 10-24mm for cropped sensor cameras.

A wide angle lens allows you to get speeding vistas of the landscape, and also enhance perspective by making that little flower near the camera seem large while the mountains in the background seem comparatively smaller.
camera lenses for landscape photos like this one

Sports Photography

Sports photographers have to spend the big bucks to get long telephoto lenses with large apertures.

This type of lens allows you to shoot action and freeze it by using a large aperture, fast shutter speed combination. That is also why a lens with a large aperture is often referred to as a “fast” lens.

A good lens for shooting sports is anything 200-400mm, ideally with an f/2.8 aperture but those come with BIG price tags (the Canon 300mm f2/8 which is probably the most common pro sports lens is about $7300 just to give you an idea).

This focal length is necessary as you cannot usually get close enough to the action to get good shots otherwise.

sports photography requires specific camera lenses
Sports photography requires specific types of camera lenses. Photo by Perry Mah

Wildlife Photography

Outdoor, nature or wildlife photographers are using long telephoto lenses.

Like the sports shooters you can’t (or don’t want to) get close to your subject when photographing wildlife. Being five feet from that bear in the wild – probably not the best plan!

For wildlife photography you’ll want a lens 300mm and longer.

Some pros also use Teleconverters which can double or 1.4x the length of your lens so a 400mm becomes an 800mm and so on. This is where you will actually have an advantage if you are NOT using a full-frame camera as your smaller sensor replicates about a 1.5x increase on the focal length.

So if you buy a 200-400mm lens it’s usable range is actually more like 300-600mm. Bonus right?!

martin bailey moving wildlife images featured
Wildlife photography requires a long camera lens. Photo by Martin Bailey

Macro Photography

macro lens with extension tubes
Macro photographers use a camera lens that is designed to focus closer.

One that is designed to focus closer and provide at least a 1:1 size relationship of the subject (meaning life size).

Most lenses do not focus in at close range so manufactures make special macro (micro in Nikon terms) lenses that do just that. They can also be used as a regular lens or for other things such at the Canon 100mm Macro, which is also a great portrait lens.

Here are some specialty lenses for those subjects to get you started:

Portrait lenses:

Here are a few portraits I’ve done with my trusty 85mm f/1.8. I love this lens! The last two were actually taken in the classroom of one of my Available Light classes here in Edmonton.

85mm portrait lens example image, a young miner with safety helmet

Example of an 85mm portrait lens

Young woman photographed with an 85mm portrait lens

Landscape lenses

  • A range of different wide angle zoom lenses available. Before buying any lens it’s always a good idea to read some reviews of the different brands available. The name brands aren’t always the top ranked ones.
  • Rokinon 8mm fisheye – not available for all mounts but a fun lens

Sports lenses

Wildlife lenses

  • Start by looking at the 400mm lenses above
  • Long zoom lenses – the Sigma 150-500mm is a great choice here in the lower price range, or the Canon 100-400mm. Go bigger than those and you’re going to be over the $5000 mark for more other options.
  • Mirror lenses – these are special lenses with a fixed aperture that use a mirror to create super long telephoto lenses that are much smaller, lighter and less expensive. They are limited because of the small aperture most come with, but these are a good starting point if you want a long lens and can’t afford the $$$$ to get one.
  • Teleconverters – to extend the focal length of your lens by 1.4x-2x. Keep in mind these also suck up light and you often lose 1-3 stops of light when you add these to your setup.

Macro lenses

Turn your 50mm lens into a macro

Another option if you can’t afford a dedicated macro lens right now is to try the 50mm lens reversal trick.

A photograph of a flower using a reversal ring on a 50mm lens
Taken with a simple 50mm f/1.8 lens and reversal ring. Could it be sharper? Sure. But is it still fun and cheap – yes!

Should I upgrade to a full frame camera?

This is another one of those loaded questions where I’m going to fire a few more back at you and let you decide yourself. Again I’m going to say that I advocate using what you have until it’s limiting you and then you might want to consider upgrading. But how far do you need to go, do you need full-frame?

Ask yourself these questions:

  • Is your camera older than 3 years from its release date? (you can check that online at DPReview.com by looking up your model. It’s also a good site for reading reviews and comparing different cameras side-by-side.
  • Do you plan to do photography professionally?
  • Is your current camera limiting you in some way such as bad noise at high ISO, you need more frames per second to shoot sports or active kids, or you need a more robust, heavier, weather sealed camera body because of the locations you shoot?
  • Is it a real need? Be honest here. Do you really NEED full-frame or do you just want it?
  • Can you afford $2000+ just for the body? They go up a lot more from there if you have deep pockets and you may need other bits to go with it too like bigger memory cards, a larger hard drive, new lenses (if yours aren’t compatible with full frame), extra camera batteries, a new bag, and so on.

If you answered YES to all of the questions above (or at least a majority), then it MIGHT just be time to get a full-frame camera).

Here are a few more things to consider:  7 Questions to Ask Before You Upgrade to a Full Frame Camera Body

If you said NO to most of those but yes to this statement:

“I need a full-frame camera as it will make my photos better”

… then it’s time to take some classes, work on your craft and save your money for now.

I have seen it over and over again and I get asked this question by wannabe pros, and people just like you that have “heard” certain things about how much better full-frame is. I challenge you on that belief.

If you think it’s not true you come to visit me (or any pro) and we’ll swap cameras for a day, then compare photos. Who do you think will have better images? Right, probably me or the pro. Let me reiterate that:

It’s NOT the gear it’s you!

That applies whether your photos are great, or not so great.

If they are great, then take credit for it pat yourself on the back cause you are awesome, keep rocking’ it!

If you’re not so happy with your images do the work to improve your skills. Learn about lighting, lenses, composition, and learn to be one with your camera. Take a class, get some tutoring, join a camera club, or go on a photo tour.

All of these things will do so much more to help you improve your work than a new camera will.

How much should I spend to get a good tripod?

Reflection of two photographers using tripods on the beach

This is an easier question to answer – more than $100 and less than your maximum budget allows. Buying a good tripod from the beginning is an investment.

I can’t tell you how many students I’ve talked to that bought a cheap one only to end up upgrading three or four times.

The advice they would give you is this

“Buy the best one you can afford now”

There are many options available so you just have to know what to look for when selecting a tripod.

Should I have a UV filter on all my lenses? What are the pros and cons?

There is much debate over whether or not you should put UV filters on the front of your lenses or not.

I personally DO use them and have had instances where they’ve saved my lens.

Here are some of the pros and cons. You decide and email me back if you have any other thoughts on it, and tell me where you stand on the subject:

Broken uv filter xs

PROS:

  • Protection from the elements. Protection from things like dust and fingerprints. Imagine a sudden wind storm while photographing on the beach. Your lens may actually become sand blasted with thousands of tiny little indents.
  • Protection from impact damage (see photo above) where the filter usually takes the brunt of a fall and the lens escapes unscathed
  • Cheap to repair. It’s a LOT less expensive to replace a broken filter than a broken lens

CONS:

  • Cheap glass over expensive lens. Those that argue against UV filters say that you’re putting a cheap piece of glass in front of an expensive one (your lens) and degrading the image quality and sharpness
  • Cost. Why spend extra money on something you don’t need

I have had the experience of a lens falling on to concrete pavement and the filter broke, but not the lens.

The filter cost me about $80, the lens was $2400 to replace. You do the math and decide.

If however you have less expensive or kit lenses then this factor isn’t much of an issue for you.

The people against argue image quality loss, but I’ve not noticed any difference personally. I have a tendency to use large apertures like f2.8 or f1.8. At those apertures the depth of field is so narrow that where you focus is super critical. Something on the front of the lens will not even show up, let alone damage the image quality, in my opinion anyway.

In fact, you can actually put a pencil directly in front of your lens and it will NOT appear in your image at such apertures?

Don’t believe me try it yourself (you have to use a large aperture though) or check this article on Invisible Pencils

So what are your thoughts? Do you use UV filters now? Are you going to rush out and get some, or take them all off? You tell me!

I’m just starting and want to buy my first DSLR, which one should I get?

The best advice I can give you here is two fold:

#1 – It’s doesn’t matter, all the major brands are good

#2 – Get the one you can afford

what camera lens should I buy next

I’m a Canon Girl

I joke about putting the Canon folks on one side of the class and the Nikons on the other in my classrooms, but mostly we just do that so they can help each other find settings.

I’m a Canon girl, always have been, always will be.

Here’s Why:
The reason I’m sticking with Canon is that I have a lot invested in lenses and I really am one with my camera.

Switching would not only cost me a lot of money, but probably lost shots too because I’d be less familiar with my camera and fumble at settings for a while.
[post_ad_camera_basics]
Buying your first DSLR? Here’s my suggestion: Go to an actual camera store (one where that’s all they sell and the staff know their f-stops from their ISO) and try some out. See how they feel in your hands, is one comfortable and one clumsy? Go through the menus and press some buttons – does it feel intuitive?

Even better, find out if they will let you rent one and try it out for a couple days. Some camera stores that offer rentals will apply the rental price against the purchase price if you end up buying the camera.

Cheers,
Darlene-1-250x130.png

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Comments

  1. I shoot a Sony 77Aii. I do not have a prime lens. I have 2 zoom lenses. 3.5-5.6/18-135SAM and a Sony 200 – 400 mm. I’ve recently become interested in Macro photography. I guess my question is should I get a prime lens 1st or should I go with a moderately priced Macro lens? Very interesting article.

  2. next lens –
    First, I’m a novice-ish/hobbyist. I got lucky a few years ago and snatched a T1i and BOTH kit lens for about $800 US. Now I’m looking for a reasonable prime for a ‘cropped’ Canon. You have recommend a 35 as an equivalent to the full sensor 50, but the math indicates something shorter like 28-30. After looking at pricing and setting a goal of under f2.0 [ which is why I really want it ], and knowing my amateur situation, I’m more inclined to go the more cost effective 50mm route and ‘suffer’ the consequences. What are the flaws in this logic?

    • The reason I recommended the 35 is that it will be closest to like a 50mm on a full frame. Yes true Canon’s crop factor is 1.6 and a 30mm is closer but there is no such thing as a prime 30mm lens so then you’re at 28mm. Honestly it’s splitting hairs and either will work just fine. For either you’re looking at the $450 or so price range.

      The 50mm f/1.8 is a lot less but it’s a longer lens. So you may find it not as multipurpose as the slightly wider one. Shooting indoors with it you may find that you’re often too close and can’t back up. That would be the biggest issue. I sometimes find that with my 50mm ON a full frame so adding in the crop factor will increase that problem.

  4. Loving all the articles I have read thus far. I purchased a used Nikon D3000 for 100.00 in January and started from there. I saw the big Tamron 75-300 1:4-5.6 Tele-Macro lens and went for it. Since then I’ve purchased a Nikon 55-200 1:4, a kit lens 18-55, a 55mm 1:2.8 and just purchased a SB600 speedlight. I’d like to ask which one of these lens should I put on my camera as a use every time lens until I am able to afford the 70-200mm lens?

    • Hi Suzy – that is a tough question. Just an FYI for you as to those numbers on your lenses.

      For the Tamron 75-300mm where it says 1:4-5.6 that is the aperture range wide opened. It means that when you’re shooting at 75mm you can open the aperture to f/4. But as you zoom in it restricts that smaller and at the 300mm end of the lens you can only get maximum of f/5.6 for aperture.

      The 55mm 1:2.8 means it is an f/2.8 lens or that is the largest aperture that lens is capable of.

      Right you have quite a bit of overlap with the 55-200 and 75-300 lenses. If you get the 70-200 (do you mean the f/2.8 one?) you’ll have even more. I’d suggest selling one of those others if you do get the big one, you don’t need 3 that all cover such a similar range. I’d say ditch the 55-200.

      Your camera body also has a crop factor so the 300mm lens is more like using a 450mm. Do you shoot a lot of sports, wildlife or birds? So you really need such a long lens? If not I’d ditch that one as well if you get the 70-200.

      As for what to put on all the time – I can’t answer that because each subject is different as is each situation. If you’re in a low lighting situation I’d use the 55mm. I’d probably use that lens for portraits on your camera also. If you’re doing wildlife or bird photography then one of the longer ones. There is no such thing as one lens does it all, sorry.

  5. Guess I’d be sat in the middle of your class, I’m a Sony user lol :-)….Great article. I have the Sony 35m f1.8 and the 18-250 f3.5 zoom, I love the 35m and tend to use it more than my zoom.

  7. The quality of this article is so good that 10 days after first reading it I am still thinking about it. I use a Panasonic micro 4/3 and despite upgrading the body several times I have hung onto the original 14-45mm kit zoom. I have obviously drooled over the newish 12-35mm f2.8 and when I sold my Canon APS-C kit the one lens that I loved over all others was the EF-S 17-55 f2.8 which is roughly the same as the 12-35mm for MFT.

    The reviews of this lens (17-55 EF-S) said that it really would have the “L” badge of Canon’s ultimate glass had it been full frame. But when I read the reviews of the $1,000 Panny 12-35 the results are similar to my old kit lens at f5.6, worth a couple of hundred$ at the most. I have prime lenses with wider apertures for low light work.

    So I think that the moral I have learned from Darlene’s excellent post is to get out there and take photos rather than to waste any more time fantasizing that spending more money on equipment will make me a better photographer!

  8. UV filter: I am a believer, HOWEVER, I was recently very disappointed in some sun set shots that seemed to have a ‘refection’ caused by the filter – live and learn….

  10. Hi Patty – what camera body do you have? You will most certainly see faster focusing and sharper images with an L-series for sure but even the 50mm may be faster if you are using a kit lens now. How much light comes through the lens helps it focus faster. Using faster and better autofocus has to do with the camera also and what technology it is using.

    • Darlene – I have a Canon 50D (5 1/2 years old). I don’t use my kit lens anymore. The lens I use most often is a Canon EF-S 17-55. It’s a sweet lens, but I’m starting to think my Canon 70-300 is lacking. I think a better lens will make a difference. Thanks for your input! I really enjoy reading your articles.

      • Unfortunately the camera might be part of the issue as well. 5.5 years is about where I replaced mine also. Cameras do actually have a life and it’s even shorter with digital. They also have a maximum number of shutter actuations (how many times you take a photo) where they will actually quit altogether. Personally I think it’s a conspiracy dreamed up by the camera manufacturers (says tongue in cheek) but you might want to consider replacing it in the next year also. New models will also give you a WAY better range at high ISO. My original 5D Classic from 2005 lasted me about 7 years, but I’d never have pushed it over about 1600 ISO and even that wasn’t great. The 5D MkIII which I got in 2012 I comfortably shoot at 6400 and have used 12,800 a few times also with better results than 1600 with the old one. So ISO is an area of real advance and that will help your low light issues also.

        It doesn’t mean you need to go full-frame though – look at the 70D or hold out out and wait for its replacement in likely another 18 months.

        • Thank you, Darlene. I really appreciate your feedback and advice! Guess I better start saving my pennies for a new camera body. I’ll probably look into the replacement for the 70D, since it will be a while before I’m ready to buy. I do still think it would be to my advantage to get a new big zoom in the “L” series; it’ll be my first “L” lens!! 🙂 I think the faster, sharper focus will be noticable.
          Thanks, again, for all the advice.

  11. Thank you for this straight advice – “a great shot beings in the mind”. Still working with my D90 after all these years, so much to learn.

  13. I just signed up yesterday. I am in my early fifties and just starting to get back into photography after working as an assistant cameraperson on a few documentaries. I am so grateful Darlene that there are people in the world like you that are happy to share their knowledge. I have got so much out of your website already! Thanks so much.
    You may have answered this already – how do you keep track organise your photographic memory i.e. SD cards?

  14. Oh and by the way, I put filters on all my lenses. My tutor recommended that we do that for all lenses for protection just as you mentioned. They do protect against dust and potential scratches, and when at the beach, spray from the waves. My filters are middle of the range hoya or kinko or tokina.

  15. Thanks Darlene for the article. I started learning photography at the start of last year. Bought an entry level Nikon D3100 which came with 2 kit lenses. Tried photographing my husband’s band when they have gigs but the light was low and the photos were too dark. I’d read about how good the 50mm 1.8G lens is in low light so I got it. When I attended a wedding later in the year my 18-55mm kit lens malfunctioned and I ended up using the 50mm for the entire wedding from ceremony to dinner. The photos turned out fantastic.

    Since then I have bought the 18-140mm lens as a walk around lens and I got tired of switching lenses. I’ve also tried ‘macro’ photography using magnifying filters as I don’t think I feel justified in buying a macro lens.

    . Fellow students in the class have got the 5100 and when we take shots of the same subject (same settings iso, f/stop and white balance etc) and compare photos on the back of the camera, the 5100 seems to take more vibrant and natural shots. The 3100 has a different colour cast.

    I still love my 3100 but have to confess to gear lust and wonder if the 7000 or 7100 is a camera to upgrade to

      • Yes I have. Their blues are so much more vivid than mine. The subject was a board with a blue background with white writing. The writing in my image had a slightly pinkish tinge. Theirs was white.

        • there are so many factors though that could affect that: what White Balance setting did you use? If you shot using Fluorescent WB setting that would make your image more pinkish – doesn’t mean the camera is bad. Did either of you shoot RAW? What picture style have they used, and you used? Are they different in the areas of contrast and saturation settings?

    • I am the same, SueDL. I’ve had my d3100 for nearly 2 years now and have loved it! Recently a very nice d5100 came up for sale, but I don’t know if I should just stay with my 3100 or not. Either way, a micro lens is my desire…just need to stop these darn bills!! Happy shooting 🙂

      PS: Darlene, thanks for your insights 🙂

  17. By using a lens cleaning cloth you shouldn’t be buffing away any of the coating – if the coating is coming off then it’s a really cheap filter and I’d get another one and spend a bit more. The coating on the lens won’t rub off either.

    Glad it got you back on track!

  18. Good article. However, I wonder whereabouts in the class you put those of us who have Pentax or other cameras? Do we get sat in the corner in disgrace like naughty children?

  19. Thank you for the post, Darlene. Sound advice on all points. Personally, I’m all in favour of keeping UV filters on my lenses, and have indeed had a similar experience of having the glass in my lens saved by a filter. Something worth noting is that a slight film can build up on the inner surface of the filter over time, so every 3 or 4 months, I take them all off and give the underside a good clean. I can’t say I’ve ever noticed any noticeable loss of image quality.

    • Yes but at that price they will be pretty low quality. I’d spend a little more and just get the one you’ll really need. I seriously doubt you’ll ever use the fluorescent one. Since we can adjust White Balance in camera there really isn’t a lot of use for those any more. In the film days – essential. Now – not to much. AND you’d really need a green filter for your flash too to balance the light.

      I’d look around – the cheapest is usually not the best deal. Read the reviews. For a polarizer you really want to get a good one. I spent almost $200 on mine.

      • I’m trying to find something more mid-range for both the UV and polarizer. I don’t feel justified spending $200 on a polarizer when I spent $150 on the lens 🙂

        • So in all honesty, I only put filters on my expensive lenses. Neither of my 50mm lenses have one on them. My wide doesn’t either because it would have too much cut off (vignetting) caused by a filter. If your lens is worth less than about $400 I would either get a less expensive filter or none. That’s my call. My 50mm f1.4 is about a $350 lens and it doesn’t have one but my 85mm f1.8 does.

          That help?

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